August 19-23, 2002
I knew from having previously cleaned the original door panels that they were basically in good shape - no cracks or deep scratches.  But after 30 years they were discolored and had stains that cleaning wouldn't remove.  If I was going to use them I would need to recolor them.  I remembered a few posts in  The 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board where guys had used SEM vinyl dye to recolor their door panels and other plastic parts, so I decided to give that a try. 

I searched the internet and found a site named autotrimstore.com that carried the SEM product in a large variety of colors.  I looked at their on-line color chart but none of the colors was named "parchment", which was the factory name my interior color.  The did carry a "phantom white", which I thought might be the correct color.  The manufacture's tag on the reproduction door panels I bought were marked "phantom white" even though they were sold by the dealer as "parchment".  I was hesitant to order this color though because it's hard to tell the true color of anything on a computer screen The web site said they would mail a color chart on request, so I requested one.  

I got the color chart in a couple of days and took it with me the next time I went to Dave's to work on Maych.  Dave and I both agreed that the closest match to the new seat covers and the sun visors was a color named super white.  You would thing a color name super white would be very, very white but there were actually 4 whites on the color chart that were "whiter" than super white - go figure.  Anyway, super white was the closest match to parchment that they made so I ordered two rattle cans of SEM #15103 Super White and one can of SEM Vinyl Prep.  The vinyl prep is supposed to condition the plastic so the dye adheres better.

August 24-25, 2002
The order arrived on Friday, so I was able to work on the door panels and arm rests that weekend in Grand Island.  The first thing I did was wash the door panels and arm rests with Dawn detergent, then put them in the sun dry.  When they were thoroughly dry I sprayed them with SEM Vinyl Prep, according to the instructions on the can.  Then I applied very light mists coats of the SEM #15103 Super White to the door panels and arm rests.  Seems the more coats  applied, the better they looked.  I wound up putting about 6 coats on the door panels and about 8-10 on the arm rests because they were more worn than the door panels.  They came out looking beautifully.  My wife couldn't believe they were the same pieces - of coarse she also questioned why I thought I  needed to buy new door panels and arm rests in the first place.  I successfully avoided the question.

August 26, 2002
I went down to Dave's after work with my restored door panels.  I still had to remove the woodgrain trim panels from the reproduction panels and install them on the originals.  I was a little worried about this part of the operation.  The woodgrain trim panels are held in place by a stainless steel trim piece.  The trim piece attaches with metal tabs that go through slots in the door panel and are bent over to hold in in place.  Having already removed and reinstalled this trim piece once I was afraid one or more of the metal tabs might break if I did it again.  No one makes a reproduction for this trim piece and used ones are extremely rare.  I had no choice though, so I went to work. Turns out my fears were unfounded (like most fears are).  The metal tabs on the trim piece are very ductile and I didn't break any of them in the process of taking the trim piece off the reproduction door panels and reinstalling on the original door panels.

 After installing the woodgrain trim, I installed the corkscrew fasteners in the panels and popped the door panels onto the doors.  What a differ- ence.  Unlike the repro- duction door panels, the originals fit perfectly (duh!) and they looked brand new as well.

All that was left to finish the door panel installation was install the window cranks and door handles.  When I replaced the old woodgrain panels I noticed  that the woodgrain behind the handles was worn away from the rubbing action of the plastic escutch- eons behind the handles.  To help minimize this wear I put a thin piece of black felt behind each escutcheon.  To do this I cut out a small square of the felt slightly larger than the escutcheon, applied spray-on adhesive to the felt, stuck the felt to the back of the escutcheon, then trimmed off the excess and cut out the hole in the middle.

Once the felt was applied to the escutcheons, I installed the window cranks and door handles.  A couple of things to keep in mind when installing the handles:

  1. Position the window crank so it is pointing toward the back of the cab when the window is fully up.  This keeps it out of the way of your knees.

  2. Put the spring retaining clips on the cranks and handles before installing.  Then simply push them on the shafts until the springs snap into place.

  3. Position the spring retaining clips on the door handles so they can be easily removed.  If you position the spring clip so that it has to be pushed from the side of the shaft facing the armrest it will be very difficult because there is very little room between the armrest and the door handle shaft.

With the door panels installed, the interior is now finished.  It was more work and expense than I antici- pated, but it sure looks great.  I can't wait to get behind the wheel and take Maych out for a cruise around town.  But first, I have to install the exterior trim and then start work on the engine.

 

 

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